BODY & THE SOUL
In general perception, Kolkata is a chaotic city. Traffic jams, load shedding, public demonstrations, political rallies and bundhs are features of the city’s daily life. India’s first prime minister called Kolkata (then Calcutta) a city of processions. His grandson went a step further and called it a ‘dying city’, a statement which proved a big hindrance against all his sincere attempts to establish his party at the helm of the state’s affairs.
Our close affinity with city notwithstanding, we cannot really blame these national leaders for their negative and judgmental views. The moment you land or enter the city either by air or train, you rub shoulders with a jostling crowd, breathe pollution and experience a cacophony of the highest decibels. Getting to your destination in the city is another challenge you have to endure. Unless, you have a chauffeur driven car waiting for you at the chock a block parking lot, your travails have just begun. Kolkata cab drivers do not suffer from any inhibition like politeness or soft speech. If their mean demeanor upsets you, wait until you meet an autorickshaw driver. His diatribes will elevate the cab driver to an exalted angelic stature.
The cab and auto drivers set their own terms following the dictates of the basic economic theory; supply and demand. If you land at the unfortunate moment when these vehicles are in short supply, you would be haggling for a seat rather than the fare. The fare is not negotiable.
Once settled or unsettled in the vehicle of your choice or fate, the ordeal of city travel begins. To put it simply, you might feel that the city has no traffic rules. But, you would be wrong, the police had, many years ago, set stringent rules to be enforced on all vehicles and pedestrians. However, the book of rules is probably lost or stolen from the highly secured police head quarter at Lal Bazar. This has imparted upon the police force and the public the highest level of personal freedom to set their own traffic rules. The police on occasions do step in as the final arbitrator imposing stiff fines on the guilty that do not reach the state coffers.
Once rested in your destination, you would most probably take a stroll in the streets to have a feel of the city’s soul. The streets are chaotic with noisy and snarling traffic. Pedestrians are left to mend for themselves by sharing the road space with fuming buses, taxis, autos, cars and thelas (push carts). Kolkata pavements were built to encourage small time entrepreneurs to run their enterprises. You will find small tea and snack shops, small eateries, book stores, storage spaces along with a group of hawkers jostling with each other trying to sell their merchandise. These small time traders usually pay a hefty rent to shady characters suspected to be agents of local politicians or police.
An attempt is being made these days to beautify the city by painting the road dividers blue and white and installing fancy three-armed lamp posts know as Trident Lights. They look good. However, cynics have never been in short supply in the city of joy. There have been caustic comments made in the media of concentrating on window dressing rather than going for real development. Hours of debate on TV channels show city’s intellectuals sharing their wisdom during prime time. Personally, I think a bit of window dressing is justified to project a positive image of your city.
In spite of all mess, chaos, rallies and dirt, there is a delicate side of Kolkata’s soul that one has to probe deep to discover. The epithet of the Cultural Capital of India was actually earned by the city it was not just thrust upon it. A leading music maestro of international repute once introduced his sons to Kolkata audience saying that his boys will get their final recognition only after they are blessed by the Kolkata crowd. Music is just one aspect of Kolkata’s cultural identity. When the art of theatre is fast vanishing in several cities or getting to be highly expensive ventures like in London or Broadway, Kolkata’s group theatre culture still thrives with a meager budget and unprecedented dedication bordering on fanaticism.
Kolkata’s Annual Book Fair or Boi Mela is a unique event open to the general public only. No large scale book trading is conducted here. It is supposedly the world’s largest non-trade book fair. It is also the largest in the world in terms of attendance.
Though Bollywood movies dominate the entire world by its sheer volume, Kolkata movie industry created a special niche for itself for artistic movies on contemporary themes made with a much lower budget. Frequent awards and recognitions at national and international forums are testimony to the quality of production.
Though it is the capital of West Bengal, traditionally Kolkata has always been very cosmopolitan. People from all over the country and beyond come here and thrive and there has not been a single event of parochialism. Hindi, Urdu and even English cultures co-exist with the culture of Bengal. Instead of clashing these diverse cultures tend to enrich each other. Someone once described Kolkata as the largest Marwari city in the world. No animosity followed the comment; instead there was pride and jubilation at this special honour.
When you come to Kolkata, please do not feel abhorred by its noise, dirt and chaos. Try to find its soul. If you do, you will return an enriched person.
